Friday, November 8, 2013

Thursday - The Ride - Day 5

Thursday - The Ride - Day 5

 

The tide is turning - a sunrise no matter how dim is still a sunrise in the eyes of the optimistic - today even the pessimistic would agree! - this sunrise is a sunrise! - Rohan is up for his run - Marie battles her underpowered computer - the other travellers arise - cheerful - the sunshine and the early morning coffees fuel their steely determination - today will be a good day - a great day.

 

The news of Anne is positive - a few more tests but she will return to the boat today with a cracked sternum - tough lady - Brian resolves to challenge her to a weight lifting contest upon her return - Peter looks much less worried.

 

The briefing ? - Neirstein to Mainz - just 20 or 30 or 40 kilometres says Gottfried - easy - ''We will see" - the left bank? - shorter - easy - follow the signs - easy - you will not get lost! - The right bank? - easy! - says Gottfried - big signs - R6 - you follow the signs - I come behind - easy.

 

Many of the travellers have heard all of this before - they resolve to stick to their own small groups - resolve to rely on native cunning rather than Gottfried's advice - downhill and north towards Mainz - stay alert for coffee and cake - if in doubt ask the locals - no matter what stay off main road and autobahn!

 

The resolve of the left bank travellers to ignore Gottfried's advice is immediately reinforced - how do you get on the cycle path from the boat without negotiating the main road? - a scout is dispatched - problem resolved! - main road negotiated - through the town - no signs - ask a local - problem solved - into the vineyards - magical - along the vineyards - magical.

 

Into a village - time for coffee - dispatch a scout - silly - faster to ask a local - ask a local - coffee and cake that way! - superb!

 

The sunshine - the scenery - the setting aside of Gottfried's advice - all contribute to Mainz appearing in the blink of an eye - a great ride - this is why we do it!

 

Patria is not ready for us to board - solution? - biergarten! - radler - radler - Bratwurst with pommes - watch the barges - watch the cruise boats - watch the police boat pull over the huge barge - amazing waterway!

 

Patria is ready for the travellers - they dispense with their riding gear - they don their touring attire - Mainz? - the home of Guttenberg - must explore the printing museum! - must explore the Dom - must explore the stained glass windows of St Stephens.

 

The Sun is finally shining for the locals - they occupy - occupy - occupy the grassy banks of the Rhine - their attire reduced to minimalistic levels - their skin tones gradually reflecting the absorption of energy from the ultra violet part of the spectrum - Ah Spring! - sighs Chris Adams.

 

A great day! - this is really what it is all about!

 

 

 

Friday, June 14, 2013

Friday - The Ride Day 6

Friday - The Ride Day 6

A last day of riding the Rhine - the patter of the rain in the early morning  has convinced the less committed to abstain from riding and convinced the more committed that they must ride.

The travellers emerge - they seek respite from their tired eyes through coffee and tea - it is the committed who are rewarded - the weather gods admire their dedication and persistence - the sun is permitted to shine.

Today "everything is possible" says Gottfried - "we shall see" says Gottfried - the travellers cringe - they understand - this means Gottfried has absolutely no idea which paths are open and which paths are closed!

The boat leaves for Koblenz at 1.00pm says  Gottfried - only 40 kilometres says Gottfried - you must not be late!



The left side? - nothing to see says Gottfried - just nature he says - the right side? - nice says Gottfried - easy - R6 signs - easy - I will follow! - do not be late!

The Royal Family and their entourage lack the requisite faith in Gottfried - we will take the left side!

Out of Mainz - along commuter bike paths - along the river - through factory site - along the rail corridor - into the countryside - back to the river - through woodlands  along smooth paths recovering from the recent visitation of the Rhine  - into community garden estates - small personal plots assigned to the local green fingered apartment dwellers - their plots raise vegetables - raise flowers - raise orchard species.



We proceed - perhaps the Rhine has truly retreated - perhaps the paths have been returned to the cyclists!

Onward - along levee bank - past crops of barley - past cherry - past barley - more barley - past wild daisy in competition with wild oat - the riders are greeted by german poppies that use their height and colour to stand apart from their competition in this extensive display of feral flora - this is peaceful! - delightful! - relaxing! -this is why we do it!



Morgen! - a nod of the head - morgen! - the German walkers and cyclists greet the foreign interlopers - into a village - a glockenspiel rings out - Sam search it  out - photographs it - we join the locals in coffee and cake! - the Germans do it well!






Onwards - levee bank - crop - crop - poppy - daisy - barley - wheat - cherry - a local waves - points - storks nesting! - eagles soaring! - nothing just nature! - Gottfried you don't understand your clients!

Stop - look at the helicopter distributing dry ice - the German mosquitoes will not be allowed to profit from the misbehavior of the Rhine.

This is easy - we have plenty of time! - on past the helicopter - the Rhine is yet to cede its dominion over its adjacent cycle path - we divert in search of an alternate thoroughfare - a bridge over the freeway - look down - tremble a little - fast cars - fast trucks - no verge - armco railings - feel for those caught on this road's relation on Wednesday - no need to give voice to our thoughts - avoid the freeway at all costs

Onward and onward on the diversion - start to look with concern at watches - the speed of the entourage increases - its chatter decreases - eventually the alternate village is reached - turn onto the  village cycle path towards Bingen - maintain a steady pace through crop - through  orchard - through vineyard - into Bingen - pause to assess direction - local guidance provided without request - with cheerfulness - with generously.

Patria is boarded with 30 minutes to spare!

Where are the right bankers? - R6 not so easy to follow - diversions to R6a - a little steeper - a little longer - village after village - some of the  right bankers wish they had been left bankers - they are relieved to have made the boat before the gang plank disappeared from shore to rest upon the decks of Patria.

Off steams Patria towards the confluence of the Rhine and the Moselle at Koblenz - the travellers gather on the upper deck - cameras exhausted, recharged and exhausted again - castle after castle after castle - vineyards on impossible slopes - vineyards on stonewalled terraces that must have exhausted those who through desire or  necessity were driven to construct them and to nurture the vines that were planted on them - this is the Rhine - the home of Rhine Riesling - realise these tiny vineyards form part of one of the great wine regions of the world.








Onward - marvel at this amazing waterway - share our transit with small barge - with large barge - with the super barges that are the B doubles of the Rhine - with cruise boat after cruise boat.

Pass Lorreley Rock - no sign of the siren on the face - a little further - there she is cast in bronze - Onward to Koblenz - pass the huge statue on the point - come around into the Moselle.





Patria docks - the travellers frequent the bar - they talk of their day - they talk of their week - stories are told - stories are retold - the stories follow  the theories of Darwin - they evolve with each telling - the fittest amongst them survive to be told and retold.

Dinner is served - the chef again delivers faire that would be more at home in a Michelin Restaurant than aboard Patria.

The travellers adjourn to the saloon - Ann sings - she is called for encore and encore - the music is amplified - Knud and Erica dance - applause - others join - the little dance floor is overwhelmed - the strollers along the promenard stop - look - smile! - Andrew! - where are you? - come and dance with me! - Andrew obliges - the crowd or the dance floor part - they dance - their dancing partners applaud.





The dance floor is vacated - people sit - relax- the bartender is occupied and occupied  - the music changes - Abba rings out - Bernie and Erika are or the dance floor in an instant - they point their fingers - the sway to the beat- they smile - suddenly the dance floor is filled with females reliving their salad days.

On and on goes the right - a fitting end to ride.



 



Thursday, June 13, 2013

Thursday - The Ride - Day 5

Thursday - The Ride - Day 5

The tide is turning - a sunrise no matter how dim is still a sunrise in the eyes of the optimistic - today even the pessimistic would agree! - this sunrise is a sunrise! - Rohan is up for his run - Marie battles her underpowered computer - the other travellers arise - cheerful - the sunshine and the early morning coffees fuel their steely determination - today will be a good day - a great day.

The news of Anne is positive - a few more tests but she will return to the boat today with a cracked sternum - tough lady - Brian resolves to challenge her to a weight lifting contest upon her return - Peter looks much less worried.

The briefing ? - Neirstein to Mainz - just 20 or 30 or 40 kilometres says Gottfried - easy - ''We will see" - the left bank? - shorter - easy - follow the signs - easy - you will not get lost! - The right bank? - easy! - says Gottfried - big signs - R6 - you follow the signs - I come behind - easy.

Many of the travellers have heard all of this before - they resolve to stick to their own small groups - resolve to rely on native cunning rather than Gottfried's advice - downhill and north towards Mainz - stay alert for coffee and cake - if in doubt ask the locals - no matter what stay off main road and autobahn!

The resolve of the left bank travellers to ignore Gottfried's advice is immediately reinforced - how do you get on the cycle path from the boat without negotiating the main road? - a scout is dispatched - problem resolved! - main road negotiated - through the town - no signs - ask a local - problem solved - into the vineyards - magical - along the vineyards - magical.




Into a village - time for coffee - dispatch a scout - silly - faster to ask a local - ask a local - coffee and cake that way! - superb!

The sunshine - the scenery - the setting aside of Gottfried's advice - all contribute to Mainz appearing in the blink of an eye - a great ride - this is why we do it!



Patria is not ready for us to board - solution? - biergarten! - radler - radler - Bratwurst with pommes - watch the barges - watch the cruise boats - watch the police boat pull over the huge barge - amazing waterway!




Patria is ready for the travellers - they dispense with their riding gear - they don their touring attire - Mainz? - the home of Guttenberg - must explore the printing museum! - must explore the Dom - must explore the stained glass windows of St Stephens.




The Sun is finally shining for the locals - they occupy - occupy - occupy the grassy banks of the Rhine - their attire reduced to minimalistic levels - their skin tones gradually reflecting the absorption of energy from the ultra violet part of the spectrum - Ah Spring! - sighs Chris Adams.

A great day! - this is really what it is all about!




Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Wednesday -The Ride Day 4

Wednesday - The Ride Day 4

A briefing from Gottfried - the paths today? - closed here - closed there - closed here? - "We shall see" - "today everything is possible" - you follow me!


The pack departs together - out of Worms - through fields - beside the levee - wild flowers - native grasses - remnants of crops past - crops new - potato - potato - cherry grove - potato - wild flower - wild grasses
- lovely weather - lovely day - stop for coffee - all of this too good to be true.





Silence - bad news - one of those bollards has caught out Anne - she has had a bad fall - Gottfried , close friends and Andrew stay to help - a taxi to the boat - a taxi to hospital.



No Gottfried - No backup plan on behalf of Gottfried - the travellers are left without a guide - the river paths closed - new routes required.

Knud organises the travellers -volunteers become leaders - sweepers - corner guides - they reach Erbach- see - well done! - coffee in a flood ravaged cafe - travellers pleased to put some Euros into the coffers of the tired and dispirited owner - News of Anne? - pretty sore - taxi to hospital - Peter worried - worried - worried.



Onward - Peter Harper has accepted the role of Moses - he leads on - he pauses - consults his map - he is tendered 57 independent pieces of advice - he distills a route - onward - onward.

Back towards the river path? - turn right says the leader - flooded says the German riders - turn left - he is off the map now - stoic - the backup tape that contain the vast store of his orienteering skills is loaded - like Moses Peter Harper leads his people - away from the flooded river - onward - through village - along minor road - along roads that become shared with enthusiastic drivers - a roundabout! - whereto? - take the first exit - - oh! - oh! - more cars - is this is leading to a freeway? - yes! too late! - Moses subconsciously recalculates - there is a lane! - turn - the tribe follow - the safety of a vineyard lane is achieved.

Where are the others? - they miss the lane - they find themselves on an autobahn - the cars - the trucks - they are terrorised - they are frightened - a terrible experience - they find their way off the Autobahn and into Opperhiem - they are greeted by the tribe of Moses - comforted - the tribe have enjoyed their quiet, peaceful ride through the vineyard - the contrast of experience could not have been more extreme.

The tribe rests, regroups - coffees - a few kilometres to Patria - the travellers arrive at Patria - they are flat - unsure - apprehensive about potential recriminations - about over-analysis of the day - people worry about one another - worry about the trauma of the autobahn victims - they sit in the saloon - pensive - the bar does superior business.



People gather in saloon - the makeshift wi-fi hotspot is loaded - loaded to capacity - emails are download and emails are uploaded - a distraction for the pensive - it is time for a vineyard excursion into the very home of Rhine Riesling .

Covered trailers hauled by all manner of tiny tractor meet the travellers - the wagons are equipped with bench tables appropriately modified to support the consumption of Riesling whilst minimising spillage from bottle and glass.






Through the town - into the vineyard - climb - sharp turn - climb - another joke - another drink - look at that! - another drink - another joke - look at that! - photograph that! - climb some more - look at that sprayer running up and down the steep rows of vines! - photograph - the shutters go mad - the drink consumption continues - the jokes become less reserved!



Pull up - a lookout overlooking the Rhine - the wagons are unloaded - the travellers are served the largest sausages that they have so far experienced - they marvel at the sausages - they marvel at the view - huge river - a major road - an express railway line - a path for the biking commuter, the biking tourist and the horse mounted local - a vista capturing a catalogue of human surface transportation - the travellers look up - the vista approaches completion - the planes entering and exiting Frankfurt airport jockey for landing position.





Back into the wagons - climb - climb again - a medieval watch tower - the view it commands of Neirstein, its vineyards and the Rhine? - stunning!






Down - down - down to the town - a beirgarten for a smorgasbord dinner - Knud gets another undeserved slap - why? - the Beirgarten owner's interpretation of a smorgasbord is a plate of mostly inedible nibbles supplemented with local product that failed a winery's
quality assurance processes.



The travellers drift away - some to local restaurants - most back to Patina via the ice creamery - some to sleep - some to chat on the upper drink - some to present and present their drink cards to Marek the Minor.

Oh No! - how much more of this can Knud take? - he gets yet another undeserved slap! - someone has used his initials to announce that breakfast tomorrow will be delayed by two hours - the crew don't get the joke - the crew furious!

Not the greatest day the travellers can remember - they feel sorry for Anne, for the unfortunates scarred by their experiences of the autobahn and for poor old Knud.

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Tuesday - The Ride Day 3

Tuesday- The Ride Day 3

Rain - how much rain? - not so much as yesterday - it might be clearing but not with sufficient rapidity to melt the resolve of those inclined to stay aboard whilst the Patria negotiates the mouth of the Nectar and sets a course along the Rhine towards Worms.

Those committed to the days ride attend the Gottfried briefing - The briefing?- in summary? - forget the planned route - it has been savaged by the floods! - cluster together follow the leader - careful with the navigation - follow the leader - be careful!

Those on the boat relax - sit in the saloon - watch the river traffic - amazing - huge barge - huge barge - more huge barges!

Bang! - what in the hell was that? - Patria approaches a bridge - the Sun roof on the upper deck has been collapsed in one swift and noisy movement - the captain moves under his open skylight while his cabin lowers its height around him - he steers Patria towards the centre of the bridge arch - he ducks and stays low as Patria negotiates the bridge .

Onwards along an industrialise section of the river through Manheim - not great - more freight barges some on their way to Switzerland - the boat people put their heads in books or on pillows - they emerge as the boat is docked at Worms - they order their bikes - an assault on Worms .

The cathedral - where are nail holes - surely they will be an display - perhaps Luther didn't actually nail his proclamation to the church door or perhaps he didn't post his proclamation in Worms at all - in any event there is disappointment on the part of at least some of the travellers.

The old Jewish cemetery - old - old - oldest in Europe - some of the travellers reflect and reflect.

Monday, June 10, 2013

Monday - The Ride Day 2

Monday - The Ride Day 2

Oh Dear! - the travellers have been all together too sure of themselves! - did they really think the weather gods had decided to transfer their attentions to the southern hemisphere? - the weather gods have regrouped their attack troops and have brought them to bear on the travellers as their emerge from the overnight protections of Patria - they will need stoic determination to reach Heidelberg.

The deep ports question their decision to join the travellers but join anyway. The committed followers of the Cycling god join Archbishop Harper on a special pilgrim’s way - through spruce forest - along pristine pavements on specially selected cycling steads.

The less committed amongst the travellers are suitably chastised by the cycling god - along muddy path - through forest that would be stunning had the weather gods been less irritated - through villages that would have been more inviting had the weather gods granted them dispensation - through misty vistas along the Neckar.

The weather gods laugh - the weather gods laugh some more – did these “smart alex” antipodeans really think they can outsmart the northern weather gods? – the weather gods play with them – after all they have a contract to deliver summer weather but cannot resist one last chance to have some fun.

They respect their agreement with the cycling god and provide the committed cyclists with acceptable weather but they annoy and annoy the less committed of the cyclists – the less committed of the cyclist make a bee-line for the Patria – they attack the finish line with such determination that they beat Patria – they gather at the finish line anxiously awaiting Patria’s arrival immediately outside the centre of old Heidelberg – they watch her berth – they urge her to complete her berthing – they board her – they test the capacity of her hot water supplies – she fails.

Not such a great day for the riders – they are stoic – they line up for the tours of old Heidelberg – they are not just stoic they are fascinated and interested travellers.

The travellers return from their tours – they love old Heidelberg – they love the students – they love their fellow travellers – they love the pubs – they are impressed with 13% beers – they are impressed with the brass monkey’s hindquarters that guards the entrance to old town – the monkey’s appendages clearly tell the people of the right bank what the people of old Heidelberg think of them.

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Sunday The Ride - Day one

Sunday
The Ride - Day one

In 2011 the weather? - perfect! - In 2013 the weather? - terrible! - the local dogs are busy meeting all their new friends that are dropping from the sky! - the unfamiliar faces look out from the boat at their rain soaked bicycles - they look pensive - they question the voracity of the stories that led them to be here - some harbour greater doubts than others - the deeper ports among them decide that a day spent enjoying the  ministrations of the Patria would be more consistent with their aspirations for their holiday than a day battling the weather gods.





Off towards Erbach - the weather gods do their  best to discourage the riders - when their  initial efforts come to naught they  try harder - they rally their rain troops who respond by emptying their buckets and banging  their drums - still the intrepid travellers maintain a steady cadence - the most intrepid among them even  laugh at the weather gods with such intensity that weather gods decide to instruct their forces to fall back and regroup for a possible future assault on the travellers.




The travellers have prevailed over the weather gods - they drop their guard  - first the weakest among them fall to the temptations of a beer garden - then the self righteous  among them fall to lure of a patisserie - So infatuated are they by her and her services they agree to sit upon newsprint lest  they soil her furniture with the remnants of their battle with the weather gods.

The travellers recover their dignity  - recover  their sense of purpose - onward  along the Neckar - through forest- through village - over bridge - through village -through forest - pass castle - gradually shed their weather god armoury - enjoy the sunshine as it appears, disappears and reappears - stop - enjoy lunch overlooking the Neckar - this is  good - this is  great -  the unfamiliar faces now much more familiar - much more relaxed.







Relaxed - no rush - enjoy - enjoy - into Erbach and Patria - smiles - a great time - the deeper ports look down at the reappearance of the travellers and question their decision to stay with Patria for the day - they quickly resolve to join the travellers in the morrow.